The Artisan Insider
  • Home
  • Small Biz
  • Artisan Stories
  • Scent
    • Perfume
    • Olfaction
  • Personal
    • Personal Updates
    • In My Garden
    • Favorites
    • Sonoma Finds: Art, Garden, & More
    • DIY
    • SSS Updates Archive
  • Blog News
  • About

The Artisan Insider

celebrating and supporting artisan businesses

  • Home
  • Small Biz
  • Artisan Stories
  • Scent
    • Perfume
    • Olfaction
  • Personal
    • Personal Updates
    • In My Garden
    • Favorites
    • Sonoma Finds: Art, Garden, & More
    • DIY
    • SSS Updates Archive
  • Blog News
  • About
Sonoma Scent Studio Updates

Scent Update

written by Laurie June 12, 2009

I’ve been distracted this week with the repair work going on at the studio and the week sped by all too quickly. I’m just now getting back to the new scents, though we still have a few more days of painting to go. Cameo and Tobacco Amber testers are starting to go out. I’m playing with the sandalwood and musk levels in Cameo to assess staying power. On the tabac, I’m trying it without one ionone and with one woodsy ingredient from the original that I’d removed but may include after all.

I’ll also be starting the reformulation of Fireside Intense this weekend; I just wrote the formula that I’ll try first with the new moss. After that I’ll do the reformulation for Encens Tranquille.

I need to get back to gardenia. In his paper “Fragrance Creation: Gardenia in Perfumery” in Perfumer and Flavorist Vol 33 April 2008, Arcadi Boix Camps states, “Gardenia comprises one of the most complicated chemical structures I have studied — by far more complicated than magnolia or frangipani.” He goes on to discuss his efforts over the years to develop several gardenia bases. He says, “I do not believe there is a single chemical smelling of gardenia or magnolia in the way there are chemicals that smell of jasmine. To use gardenia is to reproduce the flower with the technology and art as I have tried to do.” In addition to there being no single aroma chemical that smells of gardenia, there has been no natural extract product of gardenia, so perfumers have developed their own interpretations of the flower.

One of the challenges with any floral accord for perfume is that the real flower is a little fragrance factory that can keep pumping out the most volatile chemicals, whereas in perfume those most volatile items dissipate quickly and can’t be replaced (unless you spritz again). Sometimes some of those fleeting topnotes are quite important to the scent of the flower and the perfumer has to figure out how else to give the floral impression after those topnotes fade. Often there’s nothing quite like nature, but perfumers can put different twists on the flower to create something that’s not an exact match to nature but beautiful in its own way.

0 comment
0
Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
Laurie

previous post
Construction ahead
next post
Checking in

You may also like

Lieu de Reves is back

December 29, 2016

Website host seems to be having problems

May 20, 2008

Review of To Dream

April 8, 2011

Update, and a note on international shipping

March 29, 2013

Equestrian on Fragrantica Best of 2016

December 17, 2016

Gardenia Musk and other updates

July 29, 2008

Sample Sets

November 10, 2009

Checking In…

February 13, 2014

Winter Woods

October 15, 2008

The best laid plans…

February 12, 2010

Leave a Comment Cancel Reply

Search

SUBSCRIBE TO RECEIVE NEW POSTS VIA EMAIL




SUBSCRIBE TO RSS FEED

The Artisan Insider

Categories

  • Artisan Stories
  • Blog News
  • DIY
  • Favorites
  • In My Garden
  • Olfaction
  • Perfume
    • Featured Perfumery Posts
  • Personal
  • Personal Updates
  • Small Biz
  • Sonoma Finds: Art, Garden, & More
  • Sonoma Scent Studio Updates

Perfumery Highlights

  • The Fragrance Creation Process
  • Running An Artisan Perfume Business
  • Learning Perfumery: Classes & Schools
  • Ten Tips for Exploring the World of Perfume
  • Safety Standards For Natural Ingredients
  • Talking fragrance Design With Miriam Vareldzis
  • Interview with Dabney Rose: artisan perfumer, expert distiller and plantswoman
  • Defining Niche, Indie, and Artisan
  • Scent Concentration
  • A Brand’s Signature Base
  • Tincturing Ambergris

Olfaction Highlights

  • Study Finds 30% Difference in People’s Scent Receptors
  • More Discussion About Individual Scent Perception
  • Our Own Scent Truth
  • Every Human May Have A Unique Nose
  • More On Our Individual Sense Of Smell

Artisan Stories

  • Talking fragrance design and more with Miriam Vareldzis
  • Dabney Rose: artisan perfumer, expert distiller and plantswoman
  • Melissa Groben, perfumista & jewelry artist

Recent Posts

  • Sonoma Scent Studio Has A New Owner
  • Happy Easter/Passover!
  • How To File A USA Trademark For Less Than $300
  • Spring Visit to Garden at Ferrari-Carano Winery
  • Dreaming of Spring 2019

Recent Comments

  • Laurie on How To File A USA Trademark For Less Than $300
  • Laurie on 
Ten Tips for Exploring the World of Perfume


  • Sonika on Learning Perfumery: Classes & Schools
  • https://waterfallmagazine.com on How To File A USA Trademark For Less Than $300
  • Mira on 
Ten Tips for Exploring the World of Perfume



Archives

Tags

allergens awards botanical art chemical deer distilling dogwood employee enfleurage EU restrictions exploring perfume food fragrance design garden genetics gifts GMO hiring help home distillation home scent how to hydrosol IFRA independent contractor interview jewelry lavender learning perfumery Miriam Vareldzis natural perfumery olfactory fingerprint perfume general perfumery perfumery schools photography product liability insurance reviews roses Scent Perception seeds skin care small business Sonoma spring winter iris
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Instagram
  • Linkedin
  • Email
Footer Logo

@2019 The Artisan Insider. All Rights Reserved. | Privacy Policy