I’m on a roll tonight with gardenia so I don’t want to stop to do a long post right now, but I thought I’d check in. My big problem with the gardenia has been to create a base that I find interesting enough to carry the long-term drydown without using lots of vanilla, lots of musk, or any ozone-tinged green notes that so often ground modern florals with their excellent lasting power. I’m just not fond of those generic-smelling ozonic greens, though I’ve used some touches of other green notes in the gardenia. I’ve made lots of mods that I love for a few hours but none that I love for four hours or more; the last few versions are getting interesting though and I’m much closer to a solution. I’ll keep working on it in between the other things going on right now.
The cart is still down for now but I’ve answered some email inquires and am around if you need to email. I’ve tried some interesting samples recently and will mention a few soon; I’ve been revisiting some vintage parfum samples and also recently tried some all natural scents that are quite nice and have good lasting power for all naturals.
9 comments
Hurraay!
So glad you’re getting results with Gardenia!
Just want you to know we’re thinking of you….
a:)
Hi! I’ve just discovered SSS and your blog, and I’m finding it fascinating to follow your trials and thought process as you create. I look forward to following your progress with the gardenia scent.
Hi AnnYM and thanks so much! 🙂
Glad you found me Rappleyea, and welcome!
I’m just trying gardenia today without some of the base notes to see which ones are needed and which might be edited. I find that as I build up a formula it needs editing from time to time to be sure everything in it is essential. The floral accord has been stable for some time, but I’ve tried a number of approaches for the base. I’m trying to maximize lasting power and interest in the drydown while staying out of the way of the florals in the early and mid stages. May be on to something, will see.
I was thinking about this as I fell asleep last night, and while I’m sure you’ve tried it already, it seemed to me that a vetiver base would be beautiful with gardenia. But not the dirty, earthy vetiver that I’ve been smelling so much of lately in perfumes – I was thinking of one more like the essential oil I have that is sweeter and more floral. It is so pretty that it could almost be used as a fragrance by itself. Thanks for replying, and good luck! I look forward to smelling the final result.
BTW, I’ve been wearing your Champagne de Bois, and have kept my nose buried in my wrist! It is truly beautiful.
Hi Rappleyea,
Have you tried the scent called Manoumalia by LesNez? It’s a very interesting tropical gardenia with a woodsy base that has a strong vetiver note. I think it’s quite striking and successful, but it seems to be a love or hate kind of scent. The base is earthy but not quite dirty, though that varies from person to person. It has a pretty creaminess to the floral notes and just a hint of a milky coconut vibe without the overt sweet strong coconut of so many tropical florals. At any rate, I think you’re right that vetiver can be nice with gardenia! You may have had a slightly fresher version in mind though.
I do have some vetiver in the base of this gardenia, and I’m trying some ambrette seed too, along with very small amounts of cedar and sandalwood. Thanks for the suggestion — it’s a good one and I’m always open to input. I was thinking of trying a little more vetiver so I’ll be sure to do that.
Glad you’re enjoying Champagne! 🙂
Hi Laurie,
As a matter of fact, I do have a sample of Manoumalia from Les Nez. I think it is very beautiful and well made, but I find that fragrances like that with the tropical flowers – tiare, frangipani, tuberose, etc. – become too heavy and cloying for me pretty quickly.
More vetiver is always a good thing in my opinion! I’m sure your new scent will be beautiful. I’m anxious to sample more of your fragrances now that I’m so in love with Champagne de Bois.
I admire Les Nez for taking risks with a lot of their fragrances — the scents tend to be quirky, interesting, and original but may not work for as high a percentage of people as if they played it safer. Manoumalia is a little unusual and some find it too heavy so I’m not surprised by your reaction since I’ve heard some others say they feel the same way, but it depends on individual preferences, of course. I love so many different types of scents that I’m as happy in a potent floral like Carnal Flower as in a soft woodsy skin scent(provided I dose the potent ones very lightly).
We’ll have to get you some more samples! 🙂
Well of course that’s what I’m selfishly waiting for (samples), but you take care of yourself, your Mom and whatever else you need to without worrying about us. We’ll be here!
Ummm…. I’ll second that – about mom!
Also – a touch of green vetiver at the base of Gardenia sounds wonderful too (for keeping that fresh “lift”… But I’ll be happy to try whatever you come up with – whenever!