The Artisan Insider
  • Home
  • Small Biz
  • Artisan Stories
  • Scent
    • Perfume
    • Olfaction
  • Personal
    • Personal Updates
    • In My Garden
    • Favorites
    • Sonoma Finds: Art, Garden, & More
    • DIY
    • SSS Updates Archive
  • Blog News
  • About

The Artisan Insider

celebrating and supporting artisan businesses

  • Home
  • Small Biz
  • Artisan Stories
  • Scent
    • Perfume
    • Olfaction
  • Personal
    • Personal Updates
    • In My Garden
    • Favorites
    • Sonoma Finds: Art, Garden, & More
    • DIY
    • SSS Updates Archive
  • Blog News
  • About
Sonoma Scent Studio Updates

Progress! A quick update

written by Laurie December 8, 2009

I was able to do some work on the amber and the incense this weekend between orders. I have the amber tester ready (it’s a half-way cross between the two approaches I’d been working on), and I made good progress on the Encens Tranquille tester. It wasn’t hard to tweak the ET a little bit for better lasting power — I’ve had it on for 8 hours now and it’s still plenty strong. The sandal is a bit softer than in the original, as I’d wanted, and I put the moss back in. It’s quite dry, which I like, but I want to see if I can make the woodsy accord a little creamier without going sweeter. I’d like to have an ET tester I’m happy with so I can send both the new amber and reformulated ET out together to a few test sniffers.

I’m back to orders today but hope to work on ET more tonight.

8 comments
0
Facebook Twitter Google + Pinterest
Laurie

previous post
A few more words on custom scents
next post
Email glitch — fixed now

You may also like

Rose Absolute

February 24, 2007

Another letter in the series on Nathan’s Blog

March 13, 2012

Turn-around time update

December 15, 2009

Low Atranol Oakmoss

January 14, 2009

Happy 4th of July!

July 4, 2008

More Travel Spray Options

February 14, 2012

Checking in, and Pacific Forest Review…

January 7, 2016

December, The Busy Season

December 13, 2008

Happy Father’s Day!

June 20, 2010

Away for a few days

March 21, 2007

8 comments

Rappleyea December 8, 2009 - 12:31 pm

I’ve been following your progress avidly even when I haven’t left a comment. I can’t wait to smell these. Just to clarify – will there be one or two ambers? I couldn’t tell from today’s post whether you’ve decided to combine the two amber projects or if it is the Ambre Noir tweak and there will be another further afield amber also. The ET sounds great – personally, I wouldn’t mind trying what you consider the “not as creamy” version.

Reply
Laurie December 8, 2009 - 3:52 pm

Hi Donna,

I’m not sure yet, lol, so that’s why I was vague for now. The two amber approaches I was working on have led to one conclusion that uses parts of each. It’s a yummy dark amber with that luscious rich smoky cistus and the same labdanum I’ve been using, plus other notes of woods, incense, and resins. I left out the rose in this one — like it better so far without. I do have a topnote that is related to the damascones and adds some contrast and lift along with some plum/apple/rose hints; I’m still deciding if I like it best with or without that. This is probably dark enough to be Ambre Noir 2010 or it could be something else under a new name. I’m going to get some opinions first before deciding. It could be called Labdanum or Cistus ladaniferus since it is rich in both cistus oil and labdanum absolute from the Cistus ladaniferus plant.

Still working on ET but made a little progress last night. I added more dry ambergris and a couple other things to warm it up a bit more. It needed more warmth, I think. Will test more and see…

Thanks for saying hi and giving input!

Reply
Rappleyea December 8, 2009 - 11:53 pm

Maybe is good! lol!

But seriously, the new amber sounds glorious! I can see where no rose might work – you have a lot of rose heavy scents so this might give the rose-phobes another option.

I should pay you, I’m enjoying this process so much!

Reply
Laurie December 9, 2009 - 7:47 pm

Glad you’re enjoying the progress reports. 🙂 If you can follow my meandering you’re doing well, lol!

Forgot to say the amber also has spices (mostly clove but hints of cinnamon and saffron too). I usually love a touch of rose with amber, even it it is soft enough to not read as rosy, but for some reason I’m not liking rose in this one, except for that soft damsacone-like topnote.

I didn’t get time to blend yesterday and won’t catch up with orders before tomorrow night, but I did get to test ET again. It’s a smooth incense and woods now, still dry but much smoother than the original. I like that it is smoother and less raw, but I’m going to see what else I can do to add interest. I may have smoothed it to the point where it needs something brought back out for contrast and interest.

Reply
Pinchy December 10, 2009 - 12:02 am

You’re killing me! 😉

Reply
Laurie December 10, 2009 - 2:30 am

Lol! This is the wrong time of year for me to work on this — I need some of Santa’s elves to visit for a couple weeks to speed things along. I’ll get some testers out as soon as I have a couple ET options I like. I’ll try to do one that’s close to the original and one more in the direction I’d like to see it take and then get some opinions on the two.

Reply
Rappleyea December 10, 2009 - 10:23 pm

But you don’t have to do either/or – they’re your marbles! LOL! Do ET and AN versions that are as close to the originals as you can get with the new oak moss, and then do the different/further afield versions as new scents entirely!

Reply
Laurie December 11, 2009 - 12:31 am

Yes, that’s one good option for sure. I just like to limit the number of similar scents on my list and if I find that people have a clear preference of one to the other (old vs new) I’d be inclined to just choose one. More likely people will be divided though and at least for a while I should probably offer both. The ambers are different enough to have both. I’ve not settled on old vs new ET yet so I’ll have to wait and see on that one. I’m running behind today after having to be out at an appointment this morning so no blending today, just orders, but hopefully back to ET tomorrow!

Reply

Leave a Comment Cancel Reply

Search

SUBSCRIBE TO RECEIVE NEW POSTS VIA EMAIL




SUBSCRIBE TO RSS FEED

The Artisan Insider

Categories

  • Artisan Stories
  • Blog News
  • DIY
  • Favorites
  • In My Garden
  • Olfaction
  • Perfume
    • Featured Perfumery Posts
  • Personal
  • Personal Updates
  • Small Biz
  • Sonoma Finds: Art, Garden, & More
  • Sonoma Scent Studio Updates

Perfumery Highlights

  • The Fragrance Creation Process
  • Running An Artisan Perfume Business
  • Learning Perfumery: Classes & Schools
  • Ten Tips for Exploring the World of Perfume
  • Safety Standards For Natural Ingredients
  • Talking fragrance Design With Miriam Vareldzis
  • Interview with Dabney Rose: artisan perfumer, expert distiller and plantswoman
  • Defining Niche, Indie, and Artisan
  • Scent Concentration
  • A Brand’s Signature Base
  • Tincturing Ambergris

Olfaction Highlights

  • Study Finds 30% Difference in People’s Scent Receptors
  • More Discussion About Individual Scent Perception
  • Our Own Scent Truth
  • Every Human May Have A Unique Nose
  • More On Our Individual Sense Of Smell

Artisan Stories

  • Talking fragrance design and more with Miriam Vareldzis
  • Dabney Rose: artisan perfumer, expert distiller and plantswoman
  • Melissa Groben, perfumista & jewelry artist

Recent Posts

  • Sonoma Scent Studio Has A New Owner
  • Happy Easter/Passover!
  • How To File A USA Trademark For Less Than $300
  • Spring Visit to Garden at Ferrari-Carano Winery
  • Dreaming of Spring 2019

Recent Comments

  • Laurie on How To File A USA Trademark For Less Than $300
  • Laurie on 
Ten Tips for Exploring the World of Perfume


  • Sonika on Learning Perfumery: Classes & Schools
  • https://waterfallmagazine.com on How To File A USA Trademark For Less Than $300
  • Mira on 
Ten Tips for Exploring the World of Perfume



Archives

Tags

allergens awards botanical art chemical deer distilling dogwood employee enfleurage EU restrictions exploring perfume food fragrance design garden genetics gifts GMO hiring help home distillation home scent how to hydrosol IFRA independent contractor interview jewelry lavender learning perfumery Miriam Vareldzis natural perfumery olfactory fingerprint perfume general perfumery perfumery schools photography product liability insurance reviews roses Scent Perception seeds skin care small business Sonoma spring winter iris
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Instagram
  • Linkedin
  • Email
Footer Logo

@2019 The Artisan Insider. All Rights Reserved. | Privacy Policy