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In My GardenPerfumeSonoma Scent Studio Updates

Back to some blending

written by Laurie June 3, 2008

star jasmine

I’m getting back to some blending now in between other things.  Hope people enjoy the samples and orders that are going out.  I try to pick extras people might like and always include a note with each package.  I think the personal touch is one thing that’s special about being a small company, and I really do enjoy the contact with other fragrance lovers.

Early feedback is good on the newly tweaked Champagne de Bois, but I want to hear back from more people.  It always helps to see how these work for others.  I’ve reduced the cedar and made the base sandalwood dominate, and I re-balanced the aldehydes.  As in the original, I’ve avoided the soapier aldehydes and used several with more citrus, amber, and floral tones.  The current mod of Champagne is a slightly spicy sandalwood with some aldehydic fizz.  I had to change the labdanum in that formula anyway so I revisited the scent to make other changes. 

Our grasses are in full bloom in the garden and look so beautiful backlit by the sun. We have quite a few Pennisetum orientale and I just love them. The Karl Forster (Calamagrostis) does very well too. The star jasmine is blooming and smells wonderful (photo from Wikipedia above). It’s spicier and very different from jasmine grandiflorum or sambac (star jasmine is actually Trachelospermum rather than Jasminum).  The lavender will bloom soon too.  When I was young we used to go swimming at a neighbor’s pool and she had a big wall of star jasmine, so their scent always makes me think of happy warm summer days borrowing our kind neighbor’s pool. 

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Laurie

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2 comments

Cheri June 4, 2008 - 5:46 pm

I remember the jasmine in my parent’s backyard. It was quite indolic. I had a love/hate relationship with it, but after my father killed the plant, I realize that I miss it.

I received my package yesterday. I had a hard decision; do I wear the Vintage Rose or do I try the samples!!?? The Vintage Rose won out, but I will be trying the samples tonight. Laurie, you are always so thoughtful when it comes to sending samples. 🙂

Reply
Laurie June 4, 2008 - 6:23 pm

Hi Cheri! Glad you got your package and are enjoying it! Yay! 🙂

Sambac seems most indolic to me, followed by grandiflorum. The star jasmine (not a Jasminum actually) seems less indolic to me. Pink jasmine (polyanthum) is more indolic than star jasmine (though maybe not as indolic as sambac); the pink is really potent but I love it too.

I know what you mean about love/hate with the indolic aspect though because that makes them a challenge in perfume. Often perfumes contain some grandiflorum absolute with a few synthetic jasmine materials both to keep costs under control and to reduce the indolic nature of the note (most synth jasmine notes are tamer in that respect).

Thanks for writing!

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